Sightseeing along the way
The Château de Foix: built on a limestone spur, this castle still stands today with its three towers, dominating the town of Foix. During the crusade against the Cathars, the counts of Foix appointed themselves protectors of the nobles being pursued by the Catholic Church. In the early 13th century, the suburbs of Foix were set ablaze, but the castle remained intact. Today it is home to the Musée Départemental de l’Ariège.
The Château de Foix is one of the Great Tourist Sites in Midi-Pyrénées, as part of the 'Ariège, 14,000 years of history' collection.
The Château de Roquefixade: the first mention of the Château de Roquefixade, situated between Foix and Lavelanet, dates from 1034. Owned by the count of Toulouse, it gave refuge to the Cathars. The citadel, the ruins of which form one with the magnificent rocky spur on which they stand, comprised two defensive walls and a keep. It was demolished in 1632 on the orders of Richelieu.
The Château de Montségur: this has gone down in history as the symbol of Cathar resistance. By the early 1230s, Montségur had become the gathering point and place of refuge of the Cathars, who were being hunted down by the Inquisition. This last fortress, perched at an altitude of 1,200 metres, defied the Pope and the king of France but was taken on 16 March 1244. More than 200 Cathars who refused to renounce their faith met their deaths in the execution fire at the bottom of the castle hill.
The Château de Montségur is one of the Great Tourist Sites in Midi-Pyrénées as part of the 'Ariège, 14,000 years of history' collection.
The Frau Gorge: the Chemin des Bonshommes runs through this impressive rocky gorge carved out by the Hers River for around 3 km. At times, cliffs 300 to 400 metres high tower above you. The upper section of the Frau Gorge marks the edge of the Prades Royal Forest.
Montaillou: isolated on the wild uplands of the Plateau de Sault, on the boundary between the départements of Ariège and Aude, the village of Montaillou has a fascinating Cathar history. It is still dominated by the ruins of the castle of the lords of Alion.
In 1308, the Inquisitor of Carcassonne ordered the arrest of the entire village population. A careful record was kept of each interrogation, and 25 of these records have survived to this day. The historian Emmanuel Leroy wrote a book based on these statements (Montaillou, village occitan) which today is still the world's most authoritative account of day-to-day life in a Cathar village.
Ax-les-Thermes: this lively and welcoming little thermal spa town at the foot of the mountains is a welcome place to stop. The tradition is to sit on the edge of the Bassin des Ladres in the town centre to soothe your feet in the warm, sulphurous water. Perhaps take the time to relax properly by heading for the Bains du Couloubret (lien vers OI Bains du Couloubret / sous-rubrique centres thermoludiques / rubrique tourisme et bien-être). This beautiful recreational spa recreates the luxurious atmosphere of a Roman bath house.
In the Middle Ages, Ax-les-Thermes already had an established reputation as a spa town. Situated on the road from Toulouse to Barcelona, it was a thriving market town under the protection of the counts of Foix.
The wolves of Orlu: the bonshommes travelling to Catalonia had to face the threat of attack by the many wolves that populated the Ariège mountains until the 19th century, when they were wiped out. Since 1997, the wolves have made a comeback to Orlu, a few kilometres south of Ax-les-Thermes, but these days there is a completely safe way to watch them. The Maison des Loups (lien vers http://www.maisondesloups.com/), set up by Bernard Lassablière, is a 7-hectare park the only one of its kind in France where European and Arctic wolves roam in semi-freedom.
The Orlu National Reserve: the route runs close by the Orlu National Hunting and Wildlife Reserve (lien vers http://www.ariege.com/orlu/index.html , the kingdom of the izard. Situated in the Roc Blanc-Carlit Massif, it covers more than 4,200 hectares up to an altitude of 2,700 m. The reserve serves first and foremost as an experimental area in which scientists and technicians conduct wildlife studies. There are however several hiking trails running through it.
The Mérens horse: symbolic of Ariège, the Mérens is a little black rustic breed of horse that is tough but very gentle. In summer, you are bound to spot some of these horses along the way, running free over the summer pastures with their glistening coats and unkempt manes. They were once the faithful companions of the pedlars, peasant farmers and smugglers who lived in the Ariège Mountains.
Mérens-les-Vals: still heading south, the Chemin des Bonshommes comes to Mérens-les-Vals. The Andorran-style Romanesque church here, the oldest in Ariège (late 10th century) looks extremely curious with its apse topped with vegetation. It is evidence of the skill of the Lombard builders who arrived in Catalonia in the 9th century, leaving their mark on the Romanesque art of the Pyrenees.
Mountain flora: once spring has set in, whole mountainsides in Haute Ariège become covered in pink rhododendrons and yellow gentian. On your journey you may also come across trumpet gentians, pavots de Galle (a kind of yellow poppy) and, if you are lucky, some Pyrenean lilies.
The Col du Puymorens: this rugged, forbidding high mountain pass at 1,920 m was an important point of passage, known to have been a trade route as early as the mid-11th century. Mule trains from the north carrying woollen cloth, iron and timber met trains coming from the south with their loads of wine, spices, salt and leather.
The Col du Puymorens marks the point where the Chemin des Bonshommes enters Catalonia.
Having reached the friendly country of Catalonia, you continue in the footsteps of the bonshommes along magnificent stretches through the Campcardos Valley, Cadí-Moixeró Nature Park, Gresolet Valley and more, until you reach your journey's final destination: the famous sanctuary of Our Lady of Queralt, perched on a spur dizzyingly high above the valley and town of Berga (Barcelona province).
Practical info
The Chemin des Bonshommes (GR107)
- Start point: Foix (Ariège).
- End point: the Berga sanctuary near Queralt (Spain).
- Duration: 10 to 12 days.
- Height difference: 605 m to 2000 m.
For the section running through Midi-Pyrénées:
- Start point: Foix (Ariège).
- End point: L’Hospitalet près l’Andorre (Ariège).
- Length: 92 km.
- Duration: 4 to 5 days.
- Height difference: 380 m to 1,750 m.
Waymarking
Yellow/red between Foix and Montségur. White/red (GR107) along the rest of the route.
Level
For experienced walkers (mountainous area, long ascents and descents).
Best time to go
April to October. June is the best month: the days are at their longest and the mountain flora is at its very best.
Whenever you go, check the weather forecast before you set off by dialling 32 50 (recorded message in French).
Getting there
- By car, Foix is 87 km south of Toulouse on the A61, A66 then N20.
- By train, the Chemin des Bonshommes can be reached from the stations in Foix, Luzenac, L'Hospitalet près l’Andorre, Ax-les-Thermes and Tarascon-sur-Ariège.
- There are also coach services from Toulouse to Foix and Ax-les-Thermes.
From Ariège to Catalonia, through the heart of the magnificent landscapes of the central Pyrenees, relive the epic era of Catharism by walking in the footsteps of the bonshommes who fled the Inquisition, seeking refuge in Spain.
'Bonshommes' or 'good Christians' was how the believers of the Cathar movement referred to themselves. The movement was particularly well established in Midi-Pyrénées, at every level of medieval society.
After the end of the crusade against them mounted by the Pope in 1209, the Inquisition was established in the region to complete the job of rooting out these 'evil spirits' who advocated values that ran counter to those of the Catholic Church.
Over a very long period, from around 1230 to 1310 or so, countless bonshommes sought refuge in the mountains of Ariège and across the border in Spain rather than risk prison or being burned at the stake.
Nobles, the gentry, merchants, artisans and peasants labelled as heretics: this superb walk follows in their footsteps as they fled persecution.
History and nature combine in a host of exciting experiences
Your way is strewn with the most iconic remains of the Cathar era. You'll take on the mighty Château de Foix, stand deep in thought before the ruins of Roquefixade and feel the inexplicable magnetism of the legendary Château de Montségur. Here and there along the way you'll make delightful discoveries such as Romanesque churches, orris stone shepherds' huts, pretty hamlets and more.
On this walk where history and nature become one to leave a profound impression on you, you will also journey through the wild countryside of Haute Ariège, relax in the thermal waters of Ax-les-Thermes and discover some amazing wildlife sanctuaries such as the Orlu National Reserve and the Cadí-Moixeró Nature Park.