Warmly welcoming in all its red-brick finery, Montauban is a city of superlatives. A Great Tourist Site in Midi-Pyrénées and Ville d’Art et d’Histoire, Montauban is considered to be the oldest medieval ‘new town’ in Southwest France. It is also the birthplace of the artist Jean-Auguste-Dominique Ingres.
Situated 50 km north of Toulouse, Montauban was founded by Alphonse Jourdain, count of Toulouse, in 1144. A century before the golden age of the bastide towns, the city was built on a grid pattern around Place Nationale. Lined with double arcades, this splendid Italianate square is still the beating heart of Montauban today.
Around Place Nationale, you can follow your nose through the pedestrianised streets of the city centre, where you’ll chance upon little boutiques and specialist food shops, passing by imposing gates fronting opulent town houses and taking in the architectural finery that is testament to the richness of Montauban’s heritage.
A merchant town from the Middle Ages onwards, throughout its long and chequered history Montauban has always been a great trading city. Montauban embraced the anti-Catholic ideas of Jean Calvin, and after the Edict of Nantes it was declared a Protestant safe haven. In 1621, the rebel city was besieged by the Catholic Louis XIII and his army, but held out valiantly. Even today, cannonball marks are still visible on the stonework of the Church of Saint Jacques.
One of the best views of this city built almost entirely of red brick is from the 14th century Pont Vieux over the Tarn. On the right bank, on one side stand the former monasteries and the Museum of Natural History, and on the other the former Bishop's Palace (17th century), home to the Musée Ingres.
This museum contains much of the exceptional oeuvre of Ingres (1780-1867), prince of the portrait and director of the Villa Medici, who was born in Montauban. It is also home to works by another famous son of the city, Antoine Bourdelle (1861-1929), a student of Rodin.
Connected to the Canal des Deux Mers by a perpendicular canal some 12 km long (the Canal de Montech), Montauban enjoys wonderful surroundings with its port and canal lock giving boats access to the River Tarn.
Between the Quercy hills and the alluvial terraces of the Tarn, just outside the city the landscape opens out onto vast orchards of apple and cherry trees, Moissac AOC Chasselas table grapes, Quercy melons and other high-quality fruits.
Sightseeing tips
➢ To appreciate the full beauty of Montauban, it is best to go on a guided heritage tour. Montauban is recognised nationally as a Ville d’Art et d’Histoire, and the heritage centre features exhibitions, publications, a packed schedule of themed tours and fun workshops for children.
www.centredupatrimoine.montauban.com
www.montauban-tourisme.com
➢ The Musée Ingres is one of France's most prestigious museums. Ingres, who was born in Montauban in 1780, is regarded as a master of French classicism. The museum showcases his vast number of drawings and several masterpieces, including his portrait of Madame Gonze. It also features various personal effects, including the legendary violin that has come to be forever associated with him. www.museeingres.montauban.com
➢ Montauban is a city of fine food and a welcoming atmosphere. Going to the market is as much about buying local produce as it is about soaking up the local flavour. Don't miss the markets, in Allées du Consul Dupuy on Saturday morning and in Place Lalaque on Wednesday morning. www.montauban-tourisme.com
➢ See another side of the city on the Tarn riverside walk. This walk reveals the city’s amazing architectural heritage in unspoilt verdant surroundings which make a pleasant contrast to the surrounding city. www.montauban-tourisme.com
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