110 km south of Toulouse, at the foot of the Pyrenees, the magnificent village of Saint Bertrand de Comminges comes into view as you turn the corner. This former Roman town founded in the first century BC is an important centre for art with 2,000 years of history. It's a masterpiece of Haute Garonne's heritage that absolutely must feature on every visitor's list.
Saint Bertrand de Comminges, caught between heaven and earth, stands out against the untouched background of the Pyrenean foothills. Around the upper town, its spiritual high point, symbolised by the Cathedral of Sainte Marie, sit rows of Renaissance-style houses, contained within a wall hewn out of the rock.
At the foot of the hill lie the extensive ruins of the ancient town of Lugdunum-Convenae, full of Gallo-Roman remains.
The temple, built of Pyrenean marble, was probably dedicated to the cult of Rome and the emperor. The forum, which adjoined a vast courtyard with a portico, was the economic and political hub of the town, and was ringed by a gallery onto which shops opened. Very close by were the baths, with an outdoor pool and warm- and cold-water baths. Little remains of the theatre, built on the hillside, while the original Christian basilica still contains a few sarcophagi.
The Cathedral of Saint Bertrand de Comminges, the origins of which date back to the Early Middle Ages, continually had further architectural and decorative elements added to it until the 16th century.
As a result the cathedral features three different eras and styles. From the Romanesque period remain the square bell tower, the lintel over the gate showing the twelve apostles, the tympanum decorated with the Adoration of the Magi Kings and one gallery of the cloister, pervaded by a palpable feeling of spirituality. Inside the cathedral, in the middle of the Gothic nave, are the stunning wooden choir stalls and magnificent organ case, regarded as Renaissance gems.
Below the narrow medieval streets of Saint Bertrand, the Basilica of Saint Just de Valcabrère rises from the surrounding meadows. Built on the site of a Roman necropolis, this Romanesque church is distinctive in that its architecture contains a number of elements re-used from earlier buildings, giving it an undeniably original appearance.
Sightseeing tips
> The Cathedral of Saint Bertrand de Comminges and Basilica of Saint Just de Valcabrère are UNESCO World Heritage Sites as part of St James's Way to Santiago de Compostela.
> Start your visit at Les Olivétains I cultural centre, which provides all the information the visitor needs to explore the site and the département of Haute Garonne.
Housed in a 19th century former monastery on the cathedral parvis, it features a tourist information centre, guided tours of the Saint Bertrand de Comminges/Valcabrère site, a cultural bookshop and contemporary art and documentary photography exhibitions.
> It's also worth stopping off at Les Olivétains II (the former gendarmerie). This 18th century building owned by the Departmental Council has been restored and is now used both to conserve and to showcase the Département's archaeological collections. In addition, from the gardens there is a lovely view of the Garonne Valley.
> Unmissable event: the Festival du Comminges featuring around twenty concerts (choral, piano and organ) taking place in August and September. This festival was first held in 1975 and has since acquired an international reputation. Big-name composers and young musicians write and perform original works here each year, showing just how vibrant this festival remains. www.festival-du-comminges.com
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